Backup, backup and finally backup. This is the word of the day, backup. Now I’ve been posting to this site for over a year and updating it and trying to build a little bit of a reputation using my website as my own platform to show some of the work I’ve been doing with my 3D Printer and additive manufacturing. Specifically the Ender 5. Now this post isn’t to complain or whine about what could have been but to basically replace what I had lost to begin with(a bunch of content).
So with all this having happened I plan on posting a downloads page here for some of the content I’ve created over the last year. Some of this content will be placed on the projects page and further more, I might have some kind content in the form of youtube videos detailing the process in which a lot of this stuff has been put together. I also was thinking about including a PDF or something with some details pertaining to issues with printing different materials and also troubleshooting.
So with all that said what I have here today is all the upgrades and mods I would recommend for a Ender 5 user.
Upgrading the Ender 5
The Ender 5 on it own is a great printer for beginners, but as you start to print more and more with it you’ll notice slight issues. Now the overall goal of this entire operation is to improve print quality. Now with the E5(Ender 5) right out of the box, will print PLA, PETG and even ABS if the settings are done right. Now I’d like to go over a few issues you’ll run into over time.
The Bed/Build Plate
Here we see on the original Ender 5, the bed comes with a removable build plate. This is good for PLA and PETG but over time adhesion tends to get worse and worse. After about 1 month of solid printing the removable build-tack goesto crap. Then you have to start using a substance for adhesion. I’d recommend anyone(doesn’t mater what you print) spend the extra 20 – 30 dollars and buy a printbite+ bed. I’ve been using mine fore over a year straight with all types of different materials and I’ve yet to replace it and it’s still going strong.Flex3Drive PrintBite
The hotend, this is where all your plastic gets melted and deposited onto the build plate. There are many styles and types of hotends that are compatible with an Ender 5 out of the box. A lot of people talk all kinds of good stuff about the microswiss hotend(Wouldn’t bother, over-rated) or the “Mosquito” another one that’s really over-rated.
Classic E3D V6 would handle most anything(all metal for high temp). If you want to go all in with it, I’d recommend the BMG Dragonfly(basically a supped-up V6 with a bi-metallic heat-break and comes with either groove mount or rigid mount.) Great hotend nozzle swap is a breeze(pre-heat to 150 and swap out).
The E5 comes with a bowden type extruder that is mounted to the side of the frame. A lot of users love this extruder and have nothing bad to say about it, but I think it’s lame and leaves a lot to be desired. I’d recommend changing that out to a direct drive(orbiter), the innovation with DD extruders has come a long way since even a year ago and there’s really no excuse not to have anything else on a single hotend printer. I’m currently using the Sherpa Mini made by Fysetc(decided to go with them because they produce a sls printed frame and shit out everything you need).
Some of you will totally dissagree and if you’re so inclinded to use a bowden system I’d at least recommend changing out the extruder to a titian and pancake stepper. And if it seems too good to be true, it probably is.
STM32F103RET6 or STM32F103FET6 I can’t remember the versions of creality boards were which off the top of my head, but I believe the RET6 was 4.2.2 and FET6 was 4.2.7. Not entirely sure but the board that comes with the printer isn’t terrible but as time goes on you’ll probably want something a little more capable.
As for myself I was forced to buy a another board due to the burnt out mosfets(I believe, could be something else under the heatsink but doubt it.) that control the fans on my creality 4.2.2 board. I went with a Big Tree Tech SKR e3 verision 2, another great board. Drop in replacement, with trinamic stepper drivers. Really enjoyed using it but over all it left me wanting more. Which brings me to the Fysetc Big Dipper Board. This is probably not the best for beginners but if you’re looking for something to grow into this is the best option. I’ve chosen this board because I have future plans of adding a tool changer to my Ender. But overall the best way to describe it is a cloned duet board.
Last but not least is the core xy modification. This is one of the best ways to improve to ender 5, in my opinion. The corexy mod lets you achieve higher print speeds with less resonance. One of the biggest problems with the ender 5 is the motor mount on the x axis. This will cause unwanted artifacts if you’re printing fast or not. So one of the first solutions one could think of is the repositioning of the x axis motor, like we see in this design.
I want to be super clear here, I’m not the first one to come up with this idea. Especially for this particular printer, but after trying several designs from others I’ve tried to take some of the best qualities of each and rebuild them into one badass printer. One which I think could even give the Voron a run for its money.
One CoreXY Project I really want to shout out is the conversion made by Stephen Booth, he really did an amazing job on his core xy mod and it really inspired me to finish my own.
So overall owning this printer has been a ton of fun, and really without it I wouldn’t have gotten into 3D printing. So anyone that doesn’t own a 3D printer and wants one, go get one, try it out. You might be surprised as to where it leads you.