We’ve got some news to share about Bambu Lab’s A1 3D printer recall. There’s been quite a stir in the 3D printing community, and we’re here to break it down for you.
Bambu Lab, known for its innovative 3D printers, recently issued a recall for their A1 model due to issues with the heatbed cable. In a detailed press release, the company outlines its findings, the current solutions, and compensation options for affected customers, emphasizing their commitment to safety and customer satisfaction.
New Findings: The issue, initially thought to be widespread, affects less than 0.1% of all A1 printers sold. Problems were identified near the cable connector, with external factors and craftsmanship being potential causes. Some issues were traced back to the printer’s placement during installation, causing undue stress on the cables. Bambu Lab is awaiting the return of affected units for a thorough investigation to determine the exact cause of these malfunctions.
Company’s Response: Understanding the complexity and seriousness of the issue, Bambu Lab advises all A1 users to cease using the printer until further information is available. This precautionary measure reflects their prioritization of customer safety over immediate functionality.
Compensation Options: Bambu Lab offers two primary compensation options for customers who purchased the A1 printer through their online store: Return for Refund: Customers can return their A1 printer for a full refund. This process may take up to 15 business days, considering shipping and processing times. Additionally, customers opting for this will receive an $80 discount voucher for other Bambu Lab models, including the A1 Mini, P1, and X1 series.
Wait for Heatbed Replacement: Customers preferring to keep their printer can wait for a new, upgraded heatbed, expected to be available by the end of March. Bambu Lab will provide a detailed guide and a $120 discount voucher for any product in their online store as compensation for the wait. The warranty period for these customers will be extended by an additional six months.
Important Considerations: Customers are encouraged to register their decision on a dedicated page to help Bambu Lab optimize the recall process. Official resellers will offer the same compensation, and customers are advised to contact them for details. The company acknowledges that the plan may change based on new findings from their ongoing investigation and assures customers that any updates will be communicated promptly.
A few A1 users reached out to Bambu Lab with concerns about wonky temperature readings and heating issues. After some serious detective work, Bambu Lab figured out that these problems mainly come from damage at the base of the heatbed cable. It seems that in a small number of A1 printers, too much bending can hurt the cable. This damage might not cause immediate issues, but it can lead to more serious problems like inaccurate temperature readings or even short circuits. Yikes!
What’s causing the damage? It looks like a few things could be to blame:
Rough handling during shipping.
Accidental pressure on the cable during setup.
Unexpected bumps and knocks after installation.
If you’re a bit worried about your A1, here’s a quick guide to check your cable:
If your cable looks like the damaged one, or you’re just not sure, best to contact Bambu Lab’s support team with a photo of the cable’s base. They’re offering to either replace the whole printer or send out a new heatbed assembly for those of you who are handy with DIY repairs.
For those with no visible cable damage (which, thankfully, is most A1 owners), Bambu Lab’s got a preventative solution: a Cable Protector. This handy little tool is super easy to install and will keep your cable safe from bending too much. Bambu Lab is sending these out to all A1 buyers, but if you’re itching to get it sooner, you can download and print the 3MF file for the Cable Protector right away.
Apologies to anyone who’s been inconvenienced by this. The good news is Bambu Lab is all about making their A1 printers stronger and more reliable. They’re even updating their packaging to prevent any cable damage during shipping. So, if your new A1 arrives with some extra padding or looks like it’s been opened and resealed, that’s why.
Stay tuned for more details on these packaging changes. They’ll be releasing a wiki article to fill you in on everything you need to know. And as always, if you’ve got questions or need some help, Bambu Lab’s team is just a message away.
That’s all for now, folks! We’ll keep you posted on any new developments.
Filament swatches, are small samples of filament material used to test and evaluate different properties before committing to a larger print job. These swatches offer a practical and cost-effective way for users to assess various aspects of filament materials, such as color, texture, strength, and flexibility.
Filament swatches can be traced back to the early days of 3D printing, where experimentation with materials was limited due to cost and availability. As the industry/community evolved, the need for a more efficient way to test and select materials became evident, leading to the creation of filament swatches. These small samples allow users to experiment with different materials without the expense and waste associated with larger test prints. They usually come in the form of a card but occasionally you can find themed swatches, one of the coolest ones I even found were small spools of filament.
Filament swatches have become increasingly important in the 3D printing community, especially for those who are constantly exploring new materials and techniques. They serve as a bridge between the theoretical properties of a material and its actual performance in a print. By providing a tangible way to assess materials, filament swatches help users make more informed decisions, leading to better print quality and material optimization.
Here we can see someone who is totally committed to filament swatches. They’re sorting them by color and they’ve even made small boxes to keep them neat. Organization is very important.
You also want to keep them easily accessible for when you either receive filament for comparisons or make a new swatch.
Types and Uses of Filament Swatches
Filament swatches come in a variety of types, each tailored to specific needs and applications in 3D printing. The most common types include PLA (Polylactic Acid), ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol), and specialty filaments like woodfill, metalfill, and glow-in-the-dark materials. Each type of filament swatch offers unique properties such as different levels of strength, flexibility, temperature resistance, but are mainly used for aesthetic qualities like color and finish.
Specialty filaments like woodfill and metalfill provide unique textures and finishes, allowing for more creative and aesthetic prints. These filaments are particularly useful for artists and designers who want to experiment with different looks and feels.
In practical terms, filament swatches are used to test print settings like temperature, speed, and layer height, ensuring optimal results before committing to a larger project. They also allow users to compare different materials side-by-side, making it easier to select the right filament for a specific project. By providing a hands-on way to evaluate these factors, filament swatches play a crucial role in the 3D printing process, leading to more successful and satisfying printing experiences.
The Quest for Speed: In the realm of 3D printing, speed has always been a sought-after attribute. As industries and individuals increasingly adopt 3D printing for various applications, the demand for quicker print times has grown exponentially. Whether it’s rapid prototyping in the automotive sector or producing medical equipment in emergencies, speed can be a game-changer.
Faster print times mean more parts can be produced in a given timeframe, leading to higher throughput and productivity.
Time is money. Reducing the print duration can lead to significant cost savings, especially in industrial settings where operational costs are high.
For industries that rely on iterative design, such as product development or architecture, high-speed 3D printing allows for quicker iterations and faster feedback cycles.
In sectors like healthcare, where customized equipment might be needed urgently, speed can make a significant difference in outcomes.
It’s damn impressive.
Challenges in Achieving High Speeds:
Quality Trade-offs: Historically, faster print speeds often resulted in a compromise in print quality. Issues like layer misalignment, reduced accuracy, and poor surface finish were common. Material Limitations: Not all materials are suited for high-speed printing. Some might not adhere well when printed quickly, while others might not provide the desired mechanical properties. Hardware Constraints: Traditional 3D printers were not designed for high-speed operations. Their motors, print heads, and other components might not handle rapid movements efficiently. Frame Rigidity: Consumer 3D printers often use lighter and less rigid materials for their frames to keep costs down. This can lead to frame flexing at high speeds, affecting print quality. Motor Limitations: The stepper motors used in consumer-grade printers may not be optimized for high-speed operations, leading to missed steps or overheating. Belt Tension: Inexpensive belts can stretch or slip at high speeds, causing layer misalignment.
Budget hotends may struggle to maintain consistent temperatures at high speeds, affecting material flow and adhesion.
Insufficient cooling can lead to overheating of electronic components and motors, reducing their lifespan and reliability.
Achieving high speeds in 3D printing is not without its challenges, especially when considering consumer-grade printers. While industrial machines may have the resources and engineering to overcome many obstacles, consumer printers often face design limitations that hinder their speed capabilities. From mechanical and thermal constraints to software and economic limitations, achieving high speeds is a complex endeavour that requires a multifaceted approach. So with all that being said if you really want to push the envelope custom, innovative designs and solid mechanical concepts, backed up by excellent and efficient algorithms are the way to do it.
Technological Advancements Enabling Speed:
Improved Hardware: Modern 3D printers come with enhanced motors, optimized print heads, and better thermal management systems, all of which contribute to faster print speeds. Advanced Materials: Newer materials have been developed specifically for high-speed printing. These materials offer quick adhesion, reduced warping, and maintain structural integrity even when printed rapidly. Software Innovations: Slicing software has seen significant advancements. Modern slicers offer optimized path planning, adaptive layer height, and real-time adjustments, ensuring that printers operate at peak speeds without compromising on quality.
Real-World Examples of High-Speed 3D Printing:
High-speed 3D printing is not just a niche; it’s a growing community of enthusiasts, professionals, and innovators. As 3D printing technology has matured, a subset of enthusiasts has emerged, focusing on pushing the boundaries of what is considered ‘fast’ in 3D printing. This community is not just about achieving high speeds but also about maintaining quality, reliability, and repeatability at those speeds.
Online forums, social media platforms, and YouTube channels are buzzing with discussions, tutorials, and challenges related to high-speed printing. Whether it’s sharing G-code tweaks, custom slicer settings, or innovative hardware modifications, the community is a treasure trove of knowledge and expertise. To get a firsthand look at what high-speed 3D printing entails, several creators and influencers in the 3D printing community have documented their experiences.
Here are some must-watch videos:
One of the most exciting phenomena to come out of this community is the ‘Speedboat Race.’ This unofficial competition challenges 3D printer owners to print the fastest Benchy—a 3D model of a boat that serves as a standard benchmarking tool. The Benchy model tests various aspects of a printer’s capabilities, including overhangs, bridging, and fine details. In the Speedboat Race, the focus shifts from quality to speed, making it a thrilling challenge.
Rules and Guidelines The rules for the Speedboat Race are simple but strict: The Benchy must be printed in one piece. No modifications to the original Benchy model are allowed. The print must be completed without any errors or issues. Verification through a time-lapse video is often required for authenticity.
The Speedboat Race has seen some incredible feats. Some participants have managed to print a Benchy in under 8 minutes, a task that usually takes around 2 hours for a typical 3D printer. These achievements are not just about bragging rights; they contribute to the broader understanding of what is possible in the realm of high-speed 3D printing.
These videos not only entertain but also educate, offering a wealth of information for anyone looking to venture into high-speed 3D printing. The community is ever-evolving, and these resources provide a snapshot of its current state, achievements, and ongoing challenges.
Carbon’s Digital Light Synthesis (DLS): Carbon’s DLS technology uses light and oxygen to rapidly produce parts from resin. It’s known for its incredible speed, producing parts in minutes rather than hours. HP’s Multi Jet Fusion (MJF): MJF technology by HP is renowned for its speed, producing nylon parts up to 10 times faster than traditional SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) methods.
High-speed 3D printing is not just a technological milestone; it’s a testament to human ingenuity and the relentless pursuit of efficiency. As the technology continues to evolve, the boundaries of speed and quality are set to expand, ushering in a new era of rapid manufacturing. Understanding these limitations can help users make informed decisions and even find ways to overcome some of these challenges through modifications and upgrades.
Factors Affecting Print Speed – A Deep Dive into Physics and Design
Overview: This chapter will provide a comprehensive exploration of the factors affecting print speed, grounded in the principles of physics, particularly the concepts of inertia and moving bodies. We’ll also discuss how these principles can guide the design of future 3D printers for enhanced performance. Understanding the factors that influence print speed requires a deep dive into the principles of physics, especially when considering the movement of the printer’s head and bed. The concepts of inertia and moving bodies play a pivotal role in determining how fast a 3D printer can operate without compromising on accuracy and quality.
Physics Behind Print Speed:
Inertia: Inertia is the resistance of any physical object to a change in its state of motion. In the context of 3D printing, the printer’s head and bed have inertia, which means rapid starts and stops can lead to overshooting or inaccuracies.
The equation for inertia is: I=m×r2I=m×r2
Where: II is the moment of inertia mm is the mass rr is the distance from the axis of rotation
Force and Acceleration:
According to Newton’s second law, the force applied to an object is equal to its mass times its acceleration (F=m×aF=m×a). In 3D printing, to achieve faster speeds, the motors must produce enough force to overcome the inertia and accelerate the moving parts quickly. Damping: Damping refers to the reduction of oscillatory movements. In 3D printers, damping is crucial to prevent the printer head or bed from oscillating or vibrating excessively after rapid movements, which can affect print quality.
Applying Physics to 3D Printing:
Lightweight Design: Reducing the mass of moving parts, like the printer head, can decrease inertia, allowing for faster and more precise movements.
Enhanced Motors: Using powerful motors that can produce higher forces can lead to quicker accelerations and decelerations, translating to faster print speeds.
Stable Frames: A rigid and stable frame can reduce vibrations and ensure that movements are precise and consistent.
Designing Future 3D Printers: Incorporating the principles of physics into the design of future 3D printers can lead to significant improvements in speed and accuracy. Some potential design enhancements include:
Magnetic Levitation: Using magnetic fields to levitate and move the printer head can eliminate friction and inertia-related issues.
Active Damping Systems: Implementing systems that actively counteract vibrations can lead to smoother movements and better print quality.
Optimized Kinematics: Rethinking the movement mechanisms, such as using delta configurations or coreXY setups, can lead to faster and more accurate prints.
In conclusion, a deep understanding of the principles of physics, especially inertia and the dynamics of moving bodies, can provide valuable insights into optimizing 3D print speeds. By incorporating these principles into the design, we can envision a new generation of 3D printers that are faster, more accurate, and more efficient.
Optimized Kinematics: A Deep Dive into coreXY and Speed Optimization
Overview: Kinematics is the study of motion without considering the forces that cause it. In the realm of 3D printing, kinematics plays a crucial role in determining how the printer’s moving parts, especially the print head, navigate in the print space. One of the most popular kinematic systems in 3D printing is the coreXY mechanism.
coreXY: The Basics
The coreXY system is a type of Cartesian coordinate 3D printer motion controller. Unlike traditional Cartesian systems where each axis is controlled by a single motor, coreXY uses two motors to control both the X and Y axes simultaneously. This unique configuration allows for faster and more precise movements.
Reduced Mass: Minimizing the weight of moving parts can significantly reduce inertia, allowing for quicker starts and stops. Using lightweight materials for the gantry and print head can achieve this. Stiffer Belts: Using high-quality, stiffer belts can reduce belt stretching and slack, ensuring more precise movements.
High-Torque Motors: Using motors with higher torque can provide the necessary force to move the print head rapidly without sacrificing accuracy.
Advanced Firmware: Implementing firmware that optimizes the coordination between the two motors can lead to smoother and faster movements.
Integrating Magnetic Levitation (MagLev) with coreXY
Magnetic Levitation can be a game-changer for coreXY systems. By levitating the print head or the entire gantry, friction is eliminated, leading to even faster and smoother movements.
In the realm of 3D printing, speed and quality often sit on opposite ends of the spectrum. Pushing for faster print speeds can compromise the quality of the final product, while prioritizing quality can lead to longer print times. Striking the right balance is both an art and a science.
Factors Influencing Speed and Quality:
Layer Height: One of the most direct ways to influence print speed and quality. A smaller layer height, such as 0.1mm, will produce finer details but will take significantly longer to print. Conversely, a larger layer height, like 0.3mm, will print faster but might not capture intricate details.
Print Speed: The speed at which the printer head moves. Faster speeds can lead to quicker prints but might introduce artifacts or imperfections. Slower speeds, while ensuring better quality, can significantly increase print times.
Wall Thickness: The thickness of the outer shell of the print. A thicker wall will provide a sturdier print but will take longer. Reducing wall thickness can speed up the print but might make the object more fragile.
Temperature: The temperature of both the print bed and the extruder can influence print quality. Ensuring optimal temperatures can lead to better layer adhesion and fewer imperfections.
Tips for Balancing Speed and Quality: Test Prints: Before committing to a long print, run a smaller test print to gauge the balance between speed and quality. This can help in fine-tuning settings.
Use Quality Profiles: Many slicing software options come with pre-set profiles for different quality levels. These can serve as a good starting point.
Post-Processing: Sometimes, it’s more efficient to print faster and then invest time in post-processing to improve the final appearance and quality of the print. Techniques like sanding, painting, or acetone vapor smoothing for ABS prints can enhance the final look.
In conclusion, while the allure of rapid 3D printing is undeniable, it’s essential to approach the speed-quality balance with a strategic mindset. By understanding the factors at play and being willing to experiment, one can achieve prints that are both quick and high in quality.
So with the beautiful weather upon us there is an immediate need to go out and soak up some sun. For me this is getting out and riding my bike to my day job or just to go out for a ride for fun. Although after pulling out my bike and having a closer look, I thought I could easily print some upgrades.
First of all, we’re going to get some mud guards on the bike. These will prevent water from flying up in my face and up my back.
This is why I love Thingiverse, for a project like this I can search around on there and find some designs I really like. Like these mud guards made by: Reddukem. This design will be a nice addition to my bike.
Then the next print is a the front mud/splash guard. This one is printed in 4 pieces then assembled and zip-tied to the frame, not to fond of the zip-tie but aw well. Then there’s the front fender as well.
E-Bike Conversion – Motor Mount
So along with printing some of the basic things, I thought I’d take on a project that’s a little more challenging. Plus it’ll help get around town a lot easier. The conversion I’m taking on is similar to a lot of the cheap kits available on eBay or amazon. The link to the motor is as follows: Amazon
After completing the motor mount I decided to model a sprocket mount(which I didn’t need) for the rear tire. Also, all of these prints(besides a few small things) will be done with carbon fibre nylon and petg. This way I can be a little bit more confident about performance.
So even though I didn’t end up using the entire sprocket mount, I still ended up using one piece(the main hub) which centres the sprocket on the wheel.
Now you need a place to put the main controller for this project which conveniently comes in a easy to mount aluminum extrusion case, however all the connectors are dangling in the breeze so I wanted to try and button that up. This gentleman did an excellent review of this product.
So far so good! Now I still have some work to do here but I wanted to post this update, so excited with this build. I still have plans to print a case for a small oled and the front and rear light housing. Very promising and super fun project, HAPPY PRINTING!
One of many free print tests available on Thingiverse
The air pump part cooler returns! Well not really, the pump burnt out after about 2 days of continuous printing. This is why rigorous testing is required when trying something new. So after some closer inspection of the winding of the transformer, I noticed that this unit did not have an inline fuse installed in the transformer and the winding wire was very thin.
New winding assembled and reinstalled.Old winding disassembled.New(er) winding.Old Winding.
So I removed the old winding and replaced it with another one I had on hand. This newer winding has a bit of a heavier gauge wire so it shouldn’t burn out so quick. The reason why this happened to begin with was the removal of the triac circuit. This isn’t really a big deal, if I have this happen again I’ll switch back to the triac circuit and use the duet to control the circuit instead of controlling the transformer directly.
Back in place for more testing.
Now another thing I think I could easily improve with this pump is the overall sound level. I have an aluminum extrusion case(for an old grow light) that I could place the pump into for an overall improvement in noise and heat dissipation. Anyway that’s all I got for today, happy printing!
This is where it started, a 30l/min Pond Pump(air, not water)
Stock part cooling for 3D printers has always left me wanting something, more, you know? The fans that come with the printers are not always the best and sometimes(depending on the configuration) they really suck. Then there are printers that don’t include them at all(yes it does happen and kits like this still exist), so loving to experiment with different techniques for additive manufacturing I decided to try and see if I could find a better solution.
This is the new pump I’ve been testing to replace the colossal pond pump.
Now there is a concept that is kind of similar to this and that’s beard air cooling(which is pretty great), but I think this will preform much better(and be more efficient) in terms of affordability and overall performance. So what is it? An air pump of course. The model in question consumes about 3 watts and it’s not running on DC but AC(even better), but before using I plan to make some slight modifications to the output lines and wiring inside the pump.
Original Fan setup
So I started there by taking the pump apart and removing the front ports mounted to the case. Then I cut the silicone tubing on both sides to connect in with a 1/4″ pneumatic fitting. I chose to use a “Tee” fitting and combine the output of both diaphragm pumps to one outlet. This worked well, but I figured the output could be a little bit better.
Remove case.Inspect…Modify…Variac Circuit
So I decided to remove to triac circuit for adjusting the air flow. This circuit was for manual control of the pump via a turn pot on the front of the case. This will increase the overall output by about 5-20%. So now instead of reading 3 watts power consumption, it read more like 3.6-3.7 watts.
Water test, checking to output of the new pump
So with this done I’m about to start testing, overall I expect it to preform quite well. Honestly though, it may now be powerful enough. Aha the pond pump was too much now this one might not be enough. Aw well, I’m going to do some prints, starting with PLA and then PETG. After those I’ll try some abs.
Check back soon for results! Comment and let me know how you think it’ll preform, I’d really like to hear what you guys think. Happy Printing!
The Hotend and extruder motor both have water cooling now.
So after printing for a while and using fans for part cooling and hotend cooling, I really wanted to try something new and see if removing fans from the carrier would actually make a difference in print quality.
New version. Water reservoir with peltier block, pump and some fans.
For this project I had to have a way of treating the water that had been heated up and in general move said water around. So I chose to use a simple hydroponic water pump. This would turn out to do an excellent job at circulating water.
So after using a basic tuperware to hold the coolant(water) and using a pump to circulate the water and then I also incorporated a peltier unit I had on hand. This is basically a radiator for the reservoir. Then this all runs through the hot end and extruder motor.
After some testing I decided to add water wetter to the reservoir to further cool the water and keep anything from growing in there.
I will be posting more about the hotend coil and the extruder cooling block in the future and how I went about making them(both of which are made from off the shelf parts).
Now does it improve print quality? So far it seems like its not a huge difference in quality unless you’re going fairly fast. Although I would say that it’ll increase the life of the extruder motor for sure, the temperature of the extruder motor used to run quite hot. Now it’s cool to the touch, same with the heat-break on the hotend. A lot quieter too, overall a very cool upgrade/modification.
Here are a couple of shot of a certain model I printed(about 7-8 hours). Anyway I hope you guys liked this one and there will be more about it in the future!
Check out the Tough Key Carabiner I made this week. Inspired by the steel key carabiner you see all the time. I plan on adding my own stl section to the website but for now you can grab it on cults and thingiverse.
So a few months ago I had an idea I was sure someone had done before, but as it turns out not really. The concept relates to 3d printers part cooling and how it could be improved.
So typically a fan is used for part cooling, specifically a 4014 or 5015 typically mounted to the carrier next to the hotend. Now if you’re printing a stock profile out of the box this doesn’t really matter to you but if you’re printing fast, like 20k acceleration fast, there is a good chance the fan mounted to the carrier is causing some resonance issues.
CPAP fans are employed or a beard air cooling solution is used if they’re printing with PLA. These solutions mount the fan motors away from the carrier so that distance acts as a insulator/barrier against resonance and also provides much more output that your typical 5015.
Although cpap fans are extremely popular right now, especially for high speed this isn’t what I want to use. I’ve been testing a pond pump, repurposed for part cooling of course.
So after some preliminary testing the idea is to have one 5015 fan mounted to the rear of the carrier with the experimental pond pump cooler mounted to the front of the carrier. The 5015 would be routed to the hotend via 3d printed ducting and the air pump output would be via H.A.K(puenumatic tubing) and a copper spout to focus air flow.
The pump itself will be mounted to a shelf on the exterior of the cabinet and controlled via SSR.
So after doing some testing with the SSR and the pump, I’ve had problems controlling the airflow. First I had the SSR wired in backwards and the output for it inverted and it worked fine(I could control the output) but after I switched it over from inverted to not and fixed the wiring, all it would do is switch on/off. This is something I’m going to have to come back to.
So the last couple of weeks have been a handful to say the least. I spent quite a bit of time getting the new setup for the Ender done. The cloned duet board is really nice but I’ve had a few issues getting everything to work properly. The main thing that fooled me with this board was the motor pin-outs. On most other controller boards the pin-out for the motor connectors is somewhat standardized.
Generally the pin-out is as follows, A+, A-, B+, B-. With the big dipper it is A+, A-, B-, B+. So that sent me for a loop, but everything else was pretty straight forward.
I’m currently using three of the four fan outputs, two fans are running directly off the power supply(something I intend to change in the near future). There are four steppers being used, two for X&Y movement, one for the extruder and one for the z-axis. I am using a inductive proximity switch for bed probing and there are two micro-switches and an optical end stop for the x-axis. I have reinstalled boothys corexy carrier to retry some high temperature printing.
So with all that out of the way I can get back into finishing off this printer. I recently spent some time modifying a cloned V6 into a water cooled version. I really want to use this on my current setup, just because I really think I can push this to 400c easily. I would really like to do the same with the hotend I currently have installed(BMO Dragonfly) but I’m a little worried that I might ruin it. The overall goal is to be able to print ultem and peek without issues. I have plans to redo the interior of the enclosure with sheet metal.
With the sheet metal I plan to create a barrier between the printer and the current enclosure. Also with the sheet metal in place I could basically have a chamber inside of another chamber. This could facilitate higher temperatures in the “printing” chamber while keeping the steppers and other components cool.
One other thing I’m thinking about is the part cooling, a month or two ago I talked about using a pond pump to push air to the hotend for part cooling. Seems like an okay idea, but I’d really like to try and re-use this old ps3 blower fan I had laying around. The fan is 12v, 1.38a and it also has a moulding around it to form a scoop that feeds air through a radiator.
So I did the unthinkable… I did the same thing that I did with the V6 to the BMO Dragonfly. Everything seems t be working fine. The only real way to tell is to put the printer through its paces.
Looking at the printers positioning in the cabinet compared to the the intake and exhaust I think the air flow through the cabinet will be fine and be able to maintain a stable temperature. Again the idea for the cabinet is to have a hot side and a cold side, but I haven’t fully implemented it yet due to my free time being limited from work.
So moving forward with this build I really want to complete the “firewall” and start thinking about how the cabinet can preform if I put some type of chamber heater in there.
The cabinet as it stands is fairly large and has a lot of extra components, and right now those components aren’t operating in sync with each other to create a controlled environment(which is my goal).
As for the firewall its self it’ll be made from a sheet metal from a chemical cabinet(trying to save a few dollars here) and will be measured, cut then mounted with small sheet metal screws. Also the overall shape of the wall will be in a “L” to cover the back wall with enough space for the printer to slide under(so the mounted steppers on the back of the printer will be behind the firewall).
To the right of the printer will be a solid firewall that will block the exhaust port to the right and house 1-2 rolls of filament for printing. Overall it will be a very tight fit but I think I can make this work to my advantage for heating the camber.
The wiring on this project has also been a challenge because of all the different independent components that had to be integrated into one seem-less machine. There are two SSR’s on the back of the machine with one 24v industrial power supply(meanwell) and one 12v computer power supply. Then there is the Fysetc Big Dipper Duet Clone(amazing board) with a raspberry pi.
Now I also have a 4 channel relay board mounted on there for future use but to be honest I don’t really know if I’ll need it. We’ll see but for now I’m just going to button up the wiring and make it sound and finish the firewall and see where it takes me from here.